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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. But, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small place achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.